The Lowcountry, Part 2: Beaufort

Beaufort is a jewel in the Lowcountry, about half way between Charleston and Savannah, where history and charm meld into this beautiful water-front town. We spent many afternoons navigating the narrow interlocking streets adorned by centuries old, moss-draped live oak trees, trying to snap shots of old historic, civil war-era mansions and churches, walking the beautiful waterfront by the downtown marina, and window shopping along Bay Street. 

Located on Port Royal Island, the largest of the Sea Islands, on the Beaufort River, a link in the 3000 mile-long Intracoastal Waterway, Beaufort is a destination by both land and sea.  We soon realized our efforts would be better served by taking a couple of reasonably priced tours with guides who know the local lore.

Old Episcopal Church

And cemetery

We started with a horse-drawn carriage tour for $18 each.  After trying to self-guide and find parking along the narrow streets, this proved to be a much better way to view up close, the historic old homes and get their story, always accompanied by a witty anecdote.  I wasn't able to take notes on much of the narrative, but it was definitely worth the price, and a fun ride through the city.

All aboard for a run ride

 

Always the live oaks

On another afternoon, we took Captain Dick's Beaufort River Cruise which lasted about 1 1/2 hours and cost $20 each.  If you book both boat and carriage tours on the same day you save $2 off each ticket.  Though a bit cold motoring into the wind, we really enjoyed seeing the shoreline along the city and also many of the houses were better viewed from the water-side. The salt marshes and Spartina grass, dolphins playing, and shore birds posing, oyster beds exposed at lowering tide, all made for a wonderful trip. 

Fellow passengers wore appropriate attire

Downtown waterfront

Spartina grass frames this marina on Lady's Island

Cormorant posing

Thanks to author Pat Conroy, The Great Santini kicked off a string of movies filmed in Beaufort.  Beautiful marsh views, incredible sunsets, and glamorous estates provided settings for Forrest Gump, The Big Chill, Prince of Tides, Forces of Nature, GI Jane, The Jungle Book, and more...

The "Big Chill" house

Mississippi River Bridge in Forrest Gump

Beaufort saw little action during the Civil War, other than a mass exodus.  Once the city learned of the capture of nearby Savannah, locals fled so fast that meals were left unfinished on tables. The British forces moved to occupy the island by late 1779, and many of the old mansions became hospitals. 

Now the Beaufort Visitor Center

Robert Smalls was a local hero, and there is going to soon be a movie based on his life.  An enslaved African American who, during and after the war, became a ship's pilot, sea captain, and politician, he freed himself, his crew, and their families, from slavery by commandeering a confederate transport ship and sailing it to freedom beyond federal blockades.  He was later elected to the US House of Representatives.

Robert Smalls house

Good dining can be found in abundance along the waterfront and Bay Street.  We just happened to pick Plums for lunch one afternoon and I had the best oyster po-boy, certainly as good as any I've had in New Orleans or Galveston!

Oyster Po-Boy at Plums!

We're still playing catch-up on the blogging efforts, and I feel the foregoing sounds rushed and disjointed....sigh.  If you notice our current location and weather on the side-bar shows we're in Palm Beach County, FL.  Actually now heading to the Everglades. Stay tuned and thanks for stopping by.....

The Lowcountry...

"Welcome to the best place on God's earth," says the man behind the wheel of the gray 1985 Oldsmobile. We're driving on a slender road that eases across swirling sweet grass and dusky marsh toward a steely vault of ocean. Crabbers prowl the crimson swamp with dip nets, and fishermen on shrimp boats—their nets spread wide like angels' wings—pluck pearly shellfish from the river...

Shrimp boats at Gay Fish Co.

I wish I had Catherine O'Neal's words as her 2001 article on the Sea Islands of coastal South Carolina vividly describes the landscape, history and culture we're enjoying. The Lowcountry not only refers to the geography of the area, but the food, and the unique Gullah Geechee culture.  I was born southern, but this is not Durham, NC southern, by any means.

There's a land's end in every direction

And tidal marshes

We ran from the freezing temps of the Blue Ridge to St. Helena Island here in Beaufort County to get warm, but also to immerse ourselves in the experience.  Our rhythm slowed and we got in a groove, and in bits and pieces we wandered out to Lands End, to Hunting Island State Park, and beautiful downtown Historic Beaufort.

The Atlantic at Hunting Island

Lying down for the photo at Hunting Island Lighthouse

Playing in the Atlantic

After going through what seems like thousands of photos, I've decided to divide our time into two posts.  Here is a glimpse of our immediate area around St. Helena Island as we cruised the backroads and beaches.  If you take the time to click on the many links I've highlighted, you can glean a lot of interesting facts and history which I won't try to paraphrase, especially working with a very slow park wifi connection.  Beaufort, about 6 miles west and across the Intracoastal Waterway, will be covered in the next. 

Our site surrounded by mossy oaks

Years ago we stayed at beautiful Hunting Island State Park and would highly recommend, but it is at the end of the chain of sea islands and we wanted to be a bit more centrally located.  I found Tuck in the Woods campground whose location seemed perfect from the map, but honestly, the name really turned me off.  I could only envision being smothered in a sunless, dense forest of pines.  Instead we're in a huge cleared setting framed by mossy Live Oak trees. The park offers wifi and cable TV, laundry facilities,and its own alligator swamp with boardwalk for viewing the sunning turtles.  The alligators became too friendly from too much people food and had to be removed!  Oh, and to seal the deal that we had once again scored, our satellite immediately picked up a signal without nary a tuning! (Did you notice I casually neglected to mention the occasional mosquito?) 

No gators in this swamp!

Boardwalk through Gator Bait Alley

We wanted to experience the Gullah style of cooking which has been passed down through generations since the early days of slavery here in the islands.  These folks grew up in a community where everyone farmed, fished, and raised their own livestock without access to mass transportation. Families ate local, seasonal, simple food, adding their own unique flare. Gullah Grub Restaurant on Sea Island Parkway came highly recommended. Howard had shrimp gumbo which also came with Lima beans, collard greens, and red rice!  I choose BBQ chicken with a side of potato salad.  We both were given starters of delicious corn bread right out of the oven, but had to pass on peanut butter pie for dessert!  

At Gullah Grub Restaurant

Fort Fremont Historical Park is situated near Lands End, just down the road from us.  It was built in 1899 as one of the fortifications to protect the southeastern coast during the Spanish American War.  Its batteries and bunkers are in a beautiful setting of Live Oaks near the beach. Another outing for photos and a history lesson called.

Finally, just some fun drive-by stops:

Browsing Gullah Art at The Red Piano Too Gallery

We grabbed a tomato and a lb. of shrimp

The End!

We also did a lot of routine and not so routine motorhome stuff like restringing day/night shades and cleaning thousands of miles of dirt and grime from the exterior of the motorhome. One morning I was still in bed reading, and Howard was sitting up front having his coffee when we heard an explosion followed by gallons of water pouring out!  My first thought was OMG, the hot water heater just blew. Howard ran out to turn off the water and I cautiously peaked into the bathroom.  Not the hot water heater, but an inline filter between the fresh water (thank God) and the toilet could not apparently handle the 100 psi for which it was rated, nor the 65 lbs. preset into our pressure regulator.  Needless to say, many towels were called into action and Howard spent the better part of an entire day shopping for a replacement fitting, and standing on his head...in the head!