A freebie at Charbonneau Park~~

What the website didn't say:

This link to Charbonneau Park said it was closed after Labor Day but, stubborn as we are, went anyway. We had been here before and found it to be one, if not THE most beautiful Army COE park we've ever visited...and that covers a whole bunch of years.  Hey, it's half price for those of us over a certain age.

We pulled up to the check-in kiosk and it was closed, then I noticed a camp host sign up ahead on the left. Howard pulled up and I jumped out to inquire just as the host came out to meet us. Do you have sites available?...this being the Tuesday after Labor Day we thought we'd be safe.  Yes, take your pick, she said. Do we pay you?  No, they are all free through the end of September!  

Seriously, that's how it unfolded!  I later went back to find out this was a trial, and next year, if this goes well, the other 2 Corps parks associated with this district, Lake Sacajawea and Fishhook, will stay open as well. Now bear in mind, no one said anything about next September also being free.  This is a trial run and we were here at the right time.

What good timing!

Our site is large, open for great solar with shade trees nearby, and fronts on the marina. The lake and lower Snake River lie off to our right/rear.  The lock and dam are west/right...as are the sunsets.

Gigantic container-loaded barges pushed by powerful tugs pass by:

And for this beauty and entertainment, we are paying nothing!

I was so fascinated by the ship traffic that I Googled Tidewater, a major commodities mover, and found out that there are 465 miles of navigable waters on the Columbia and Snake Rivers, starting at the Pacific port at Astoria, OR all the way to the inland port at Lewiston, ID!  Amazing amounts of goods travel these waterways...  

There is also an impressive marina here with house-boats for rent (hmmm, we haven't rented a house-boat since a July weekend at Flaming Gorge), private sail (0hhhh, we need to go sailing again!) and power boats docked and moored, weekend fishing, jet skis, board paddling, and swimming. Though we were pretty much alone during our 5 days, the weekend picked up...a little.  But still, 5 nights of free camping @ $25 per night and that's a bit modest = a fair amount of groceries or fuel, and in such a beautiful environment to boot.

During the magic hours before sunset the clouds light up and the shadows intensify. We are flying high on our good luck and timing.  The weather ranges from mid 70s to 80s and air quality was mostly good, what with all the fires nearby.  It's hard to tear ourselves away from the views alone, but we have things to do.  

The dam:

Ice Harbor Lock and Dam has a very impressive visitor's center, but you'll have to take my word for it and check the website since no cameras are allowed.  Ditto the fish ladders where salmon swam before our eyes.  Security is very strict with identification needed to pass the guard before entering the facilities.  The road across the dam to the north side of the river is closed to the public, thus viewing ships entering and exiting the lock is from a distance. The lock is a single lift measuring 86' wide x 675 long, with a l00' vertical lift! This is a greater vertical lift than any of the 3 locks on the Panama Canal!  

Even with all this visual distraction we managed to polish the MH after many miles and a thick coating of road grime and bugs.  Since we never know if or when we'll have water and most campgrounds restrict washing anyway, we've used Dri Wash 'n Guard for years.  It's a one step process and in a couple of days we look like new.  I do the bottom half and Howard the top.  It also works great on our reflective glass windows; not so much the windshield.

We picked up a mail shipment at the UPS store in Kennewick about 18 miles away, and did the dreaded laundry at one of the best laundromats ever in Pasco where there is also a Safeway and major shopping. As you might gather, the park is located a ways out of town in the Tri-Cities area,  in a large, verdant agricultural area where water is plentiful.

The days flew by and it was time to head south as we have a schedule!  On to Eastern Oregon....But first, one last sunset:

Summer planning...

During these dog days of summer when our travels slow to a snail's pace, ebbing and flowing like a wimpy tide, our minds wander to far off places.  We pull out maps then do the inevitable internet search and find...tada... The World's 8 Best Places to Retire in 2014:

1. Coronada, Panama~~Monthly budget $1800, rent $600
2. Languedoc, France~~Monthly budget $2300, rent $800
3. Ambergris Caye, Belize~~Monthly budget $2000, rent $800
4. Cuenca, Ecuador~~Monthly budget $1300, rent $500
5. Chiang Mai, Thailand~~Monthly budget $1100, rent $400
6. Puerto Vallarta, Mexico~~Monthly budget $2000, rent $700
7. Granada, Nicaragua~~Monthly budget $1300, rent $500
8. Medellin, Colombia~~Monthly budget $1800, rent $500

Our studio apt. is part of Villa Delfin

Wow, this stoked our curiosity big time and got us to thinking we might try a month in one of these locations.  We've started to experiment with life outside the motorhome, spending a month in an apartment or condo in foreign locations, like last year's trips to Roatan, Honduras in February, and April's drive down to San Carlos, Mexico. 

We walked down the hill to the beach

We've been to Ambergris Caye and Puerto Vallarta a few times so want to try something different. The Languedoc has always fascinated me since reading The Narrow Dog to Carcassonne and Thailand bodes mysterious and enchanting.  Alas, these locations will have to wait for another year perhaps.

View from our 13th floor San Carlos condo balcony

We had brief stops in Cartagena, Colombia and Panama on our Tall Ship cruise aboard the Star Flyer in 2011, and would like to eventually spend more time on Panama's west coast.  We narrowed our choices down to Granada or Cuenca in countries we've not visited in the Americas.  Next we checked out accommodations on Vacation Rentals By Owner and found both locations very reasonable.  We've also learned over the years that owners are usually amenable to negotiation, especially for extended stays such as a month.  

An overview of San Carlos, MX

I guess in the end our choice of Granada might have been simply its proximity.  Plus the owners live in Vermont and responded to our many questions and did offer us a sweet deal for the month of October.  Here is the web site with photos and overview of our "intown" Granada condo.  We chose the 1 bedroom, lower level, end unit with the infinity pool right out our door.  Croissants, Nicaraguan coffee, and fresh fruit each morning will be a bonus!

Though a couple of hours drive to the Pacific, Granada is situated along the shores of Lake Nicaragua (Cocibolca), the 10th largest lake in the world.  Nearby is the now dormant Mombacho Volcano that blew its top and now forms a lake with the 365 Islets of Granada.  Transportation is cheap so we expect to do much sightseeing.  I envision most early mornings and late afternoon/evenings strolling the short distance into el centro for dining experiences and seeing the sights of this oldest colonial city in Latin America which was founded in 1524, just 9 years before Cartagena.  

Before signing off I should say....No, we're not planning on retiring anywhere at this time and surely not in one place, and not outside the USA, but extended periods of travel in some of these locations does hold a lot of fascination.  And...we have another wonderful motorhome trip planned for August and September! 

Back roads and surprises of MI’s Upper Peninsula and The Soo…

From Duluth Highway 2 is short-lived through Wisconsin.  We did stop in the charming town of Ashland, nestled on the south shore of Lake Superior’s Chaquamegon Bay, for fuel and a lunch break at a beautiful city park.  We’re getting lots of tips from friends and bloggers for places to visit and sights to see on this trip, but unfortunately our route did not take us near any Rhinelander Restaurants, as recommended by Ex-Badger Al.

Fueling up in Ashland, WI

Ashland city park on Lake Superior

Americana through our windshield

A second Great Lake experience was added to our list with views of Lake Michigan appearing out our windshield near Manistique, MI.  This obviously called for a photo op stop and Howard was more than happy to accommodate.  We took advantage of this time to explore possible driving itineraries to maximize our sight-seeing experience.  Our map showed a scenic drive (77, 28, 123, 28) that would take us to Tahquamenon Falls State Park and eventually drop us off in Sault Ste. Marie. 

Howard models for a photo by Lake Michigan

It proved to be the perfect route.  We passed through small towns on a two-lane lined with trees in varying stages of autumn colors.  We happened upon a couple of vintage cars that we were destined to meet up with in a short time.  We found the magnificent Taquahmenon Falls State Park, and were only too happy to part with the $8 day use fee, unprepared for what lie ahead.

A couple of vintage cars, but there's more!

A touch of red and gold...

And this is what greeted us after parking!  A very impressive vintage car club from all over the country meeting up for a road trip.  They are known as the FARTS…Friends of Ancient Road Transportation.  There were classic Pierce Arrows, Rolls Royces, Cadillacs, Overlands, and Peugeots.

Much more awaited us on the half mile trail to the Upper Falls but we certainly weren't prepared for this:

About 100 steps down...then up, but worth it!

Taken from a viewpoint on the trail above..

And closer...

and up close!

The colors of brown, red, and gold are the result of tannic acid in the soil and roots and what a spectacular, unexpected display it was!


We finally continued on to our destination in Sault Ste. Marie and another marvelous parking site right on the banks of the St. Marys River.  Thanks to Beth for encouraging us to go a bit out of our way (we have a way?) to see the Soo Locks!   There are only 4 sites with water and electric for $25 but again it’s the location that counts.   This is the view from our window of the working waterfront.

Looking across the St. Mary’s River at Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario

And we were just in time for a fine chicken dinner with all the trimmings.  I’m sure we saw this freighter in Duluth!

From our table (out the window) dining at the Elk's Lodge in Sault Ste. Marie

We transited the Panama Canal in November 2011, but never tire of amazing feats of engineering.  The Soo Locks are a set of four parallel locks which enable ships to travel between Lake Superior and the lower Great Lakes. They are located on the St. Marys River between Lake Superior and Lake Huron, between the Upper Peninsula of Michigan and the province of Ontario. They bypass the rapids of the river, where the water falls 21 feet:

• The MacArthur Lock is 800 feet  long, 80 feet wide, and 29.5 feet deep.

• The Poe Lock is 1,200 feet long, 110 feet wide, and 32 feet deep

• The Davis Lock is 1,350 feet long, 80 feet wide, and 23.1 ft. deep.

• The Sabin Lock is 1,350 feet long, 80 feet wide, and 23.1 feet deep.

A single small lock is currently operated on the Canadian side of the Soo. Opened in 1998, it was built within a damaged older lock, and is  253 ft.  long, 51 ft. wide, and 44 ft. deep. The Canadian lock is used for recreational and tour boats; major shipping traffic uses the U.S. locks.

The latter two are either used infrequently or placed in caretaker status.

We had heard while walking around that a large vessel was approaching.  We went into the very impressive Corps of Engineers Visitor Center and this was confirmed.  We had about 45 minutes to view and read all the exhibits then gathered on the viewing platform for the approach of a 1000’ freighter.

The MacArthur lock looking toward the St. Marys River

Looking toward Lake Superior and the International Bridge with a 1000' freighter approaching the Poe Lock

Here the MacArthur Lock has raised 21' & now level with Lake Superior

A small tug enters the Lake as the large freighter (lock 2) is lowered to River level

We are moving along pretty fast now to get to Niagara Falls, so keeping current on blog posts is replaced by days full of seeing the local areas that happen to be our home for a night or two, and quick Facebook check-ins. Please stay tuned, though, as I will eventually get you to where we are!  Thanks for stopping by….

The dog days of sailing...

NZ Emirates hydrofoils as it approaches the buoy!

Ever since 1851, when the narrow bow entry of the schooner America raised eyebrows among British competitors, extreme design innovations have always been an inherent part of America's Cup competitions.  But never before have innovations been more radical than in this, the 34th edition!

Team Oracle with a fog-shrouded Golden Gate

Following the 2010 America's Cup with USA's Oracle the winner, it was decided that future competitions would be sailed in catamarans to make the sport more attractive to television audiences.  This led to the new and revolutionary and also controversial design of the America's Cup 72 Class, with the addition of daggerboard foils.  The AC72s we saw practicing and racing this last week were not only blasting along at phenomenal speeds, but literally flying above the water's surface!

USA and NZ cross paths on a practice run

Two major incidences showed the potential danger these large catamarans face on the SF Bay.  Last October Oracle's AC 72 pitchpoled and capsized while being swept out under the Golden Gate Bridge during a strong ebb-tide.  Fortunately there were no injuries to the crew.  Recently, in May, Sweden's Artemis Racing team AC72 pitchpoled and broke apart resulting in the death of one crew member.

Classic Bird Boat on the Bay

All facts and controversy aside, our day trips were fuelled by a love for the art and fun of sailing and photo ops for yours truly.  Howard, a sailor at heart, raced the classic Bird Boat, Mavis, during the early 1960s.  When we first got together in 1989, Howard lived aboard his 35' sloop in Half Moon Bay, after years of sailing in Florida and the Bahamas.  We try to include sailing venues along with RV travels whenever possible, via friends or bareboat charters.  We find ourselves drifting off to trips in the recent past, sailing in the crystal clear, turquoise waters of the Caribbean, in Belize and Honduras, and aboard the Star Flyer for 21 days, sailing from Barbados through the Panama Canal to Costa Rica.  Then years past in Mexico's Sea of Cortes, the eastern Caribbean's Virgin Islands and even as far away as New Caledonia in the French South Pacific.



San Francisco's Crissy Field dog park offers an excuse to nap the grandlab, Annie, for a great day of sailing action,  swimming and chasing a ball.  The camera is hopelessly covered with the remains of a shaking wet dog and fervent hole digging sand.  We manage a deli-provided picnic sandwich amidst the action, both on shore and water.


We take advantage of the couple of weeks left in our Bay Area stay before departing the end of July for the Pacific Northwest, and onward, God willing.  Our days are filled with family time, day trips to easily accessible coastal hikes and inland vineyards, visits with local friends, and endless RV projects.  Oh, and the round of doctor visits...so far, so good!

Week 3: Panama to Costa Rica

Two weeks may have been enough, though we so looked forward to Costa Rica.  Just became tired of socializing, eating, scheduling, confinement...you get the picture!  There were many excursions and land tours from our anchorage in various beautiful locations but all were very expensive.  The ship's currency is the Euro, so not favorable to Americans.  We often found that going ashore and bargaining with taxi drivers was a lot cheaper, and more fun to do on our own.  Our last week's itinerary proved to be quite nice in spite of our waning enthusiasm!

Leaving Panama on the southwest Pacific, we first stopped at Isla Iguana,  a beautiful little island about 7 km or 4.5 miles off the coast of Panama, a Wildlife Refuge surrounded by palm trees, fine white sand beaches, and crystal clear waters, perfect for snorkeling the coral reefs.  There appeared to be a small, private hostel for a few overnight guests.  Frigate birds were in abundance and the fishing was said to be terrific.

Ashore for snorkeling on Isla Iguana

The epitome of a cruise photo (says Beth)

Howard in his element

Our next stop was Isla Gamez, one of the many uninhabited islands located in the Chiriqui Gulf National Marine Park, near the border with Costa Rica.  The extensive coral reef and mangrove swamps serve as protected areas for leatherback turtles and many species of exotic fish.  The beautiful beaches are lined with coconut palms.  Our naturalist, Steffi, who joined us in Panama, proceeded to open a fallen coco for us that she found on the beach.  She gives talks a couple of times a day on the flora and fauna of our destinations in Costa Rica.

Golfito is a remote and secluded town on the southern Pacific mainland coast, not far from the border with Panama.  A major port until the mid 80s, Golfito was the center for the banana growing region, with the United Fruit Company's headquarters being based here.  Since its closure the town has suffered from major economic loss but with the advent of tourism, is slowly rebuilding itself.

We looked forward to the day ashore, first just sitting at the marina bar with a beer and free wifi.  The ship's wifi is 20 Euros for 3 hours, or about $9 an hour!  Next we walked the short distance into town and found a Farmacia for some throat lozenges as I seem to be coming down with a sore throat or something.

We wanted local  Tico food for lunch and the pharmacist recommended the perfect restaurante.  We had hamburgers and French fries...hamburguesas con papas fritas!  Every small Central American country has their own national beer.  Here in Costa Rica it is Imperial.  In Belize, it is Belikin and in Honduras, Salva Vida.

Picturesque Golfito

Golfito fishing fleet

Nice view from town

All aboard...though this is not the ship's tender

Approaching Drake Bay we seemed to have magically entered the rainy season as we were hit by a deluge.  A good reason to stay aboard and while the hours away reading.  The groups that had pre-paid "horseback riding to the last frontier" and a hike through Corcovado National Park returned 4 hours later drenched to the bone.  Many tender or inflatable trips to shore warn of wet landings, meaning you usually disembark in the water or surf, but this wet landing took on a stronger meaning!

By the time we reached Quepos we almost felt at home, having visited this area and stayed for a week in 2004.  Instead of paying the 44 Euros per person, or $120 for the two of us, to visit Manuel Antonio National Park, we just hired a taxi when we got into port:  $30 round-trip for the taxi and $20 for park admittance for two.  After hiking around for awhile, and yes seeing a monkey...though the photo is blurry, we paid a few extra dollars or colones (500 = $1) for cold Imperials.  Oh, and taxi drivers don't let you out of their sight so no worries about him being there for the return trip!

See the monkey?

A taxi to Manuel Antonio..much cheaper than ship tour

Banana plants

The beach at sunset

Please click on Isla Tortugas to get more info on our last stop for snorkeling or a paid nature walk at the private Curu Wildlife reserve.  We stayed onboard and began organizing and packing after 3 weeks of being spread out in closets and cabinets,  for tomorrow's arrival at Puerto Caldera and our point of disembarkation.  We did admire the view of Isla Tortugas where there were many day-cruise boats ferrying passengers to and fro'. 

Isla Tortugas from a zoom lens

 So dear friends, by the time you read this we will be enjoying 4 days of "decompression" at a condo in Jaco, Costa Rica.