Mono Lake

4 a.m. Monday:  Honey, are you awake?  zzzzzzzzzzzz......  Wanna go catch the sunrise at Mono Lake?  zzzzzzzzzzzzz.....OK!  


We slowly got ourselves upright and semi-coherent with the help of.....Coffee.  I put water on to boil, set up the French press, the grinder and our dark French roast beans.  Howard takes over while I wash, brush, and dress.  We relish the first invigorating cup, gather the camera equipment, warm clothes, and a go-cup, then head out for the day. 


We arrive at Mono Lake South Tufa State Nature Reserve , about a 20 mile drive, just before 6  a.m.  The parking lot is full of the "real" photographers who come from all over the world to capture the interplay of light on mountains, desert, and water.  The reflections of tufas and clouds make for interesting subjects.

The reserve was formed to protect the spectacular tufa towers, calcium carbonate spires and knobs formed by interaction of freshwater springs and alkaline lake water.  Mono Lake is an ancient lake, over one million years old, covering 65 square miles.  Freshwater evaporating from the lake each year has left salts and minerals behind so that the lake is now about 2 1/2 times as salty as the ocean.

The reserve also protects the lake surface itself, as well as the wetlands, and other sensitive habitat for the 1-2 million birds that feed and rest here each year.  Alkali flies and brine shrimp provide an endless food supply.  It is the 2nd largest California Gull rookery in the US and by late spring, as in now, there is an average of 50,000 gulls arriving to feed and breed!

NASA recently announced the finding of of a new species of bacteria in Mono Lake that uses arsenic to replace phosphorus, one of the six known building blocks for most known life, to make its DNA and proteins.  Other researchers are saying they've been unable to replicate the production of bacteria in arsenic, calling into question NASA's findings.  This is all very interesting but for our non-scientific minds, the beauty and grandeur on this early morning excursion is akin to a spiritual experience.

 

 By 8:30 a.m. we're having lattes and muffins at El Mono Hotel's Latte Da Cafe in Lee Vining. Fortified and re-invigorated, we're now ready for the climb up Tioga Pass, the highest highway pass in California, through the Sierra Nevada, to explore the upper Yosemite Nat'l Park.  

A day along the way..The WHOLE story!

Note to self:  Probably best not to post when tired, after a long day...and a glass of wine.  It's the Save tab not the Publish!  So back to our day...


Remember this is Memorial Day weekend, Saturday to be exact (for this outing).  We were up early and ready to experience the upper Yosemite NP, along Tioga Pass.  Not happening, after last night's snow, the pass is closed.  No problem, we'll just head over to Mammoth and Devil's Postpile Nat'l Monument.  Well,  Mammoth Mountain is the premier skiing destination for the Southern CA area and silly us forgot that this particular weekend would be the die-hards' last chance at killing the slopes.  The area was a traffic gridlock, plus snow falling and visibility nil...no chance of finding parking, much less the shuttle to ferry us to Devil's Postpile which, by the way, is closed due to major repairs after a severe windstorm last November!

Let's get going!

Stopped for coffee in Lee Vining after seeing Tioga Pass is closed

Mammoth..not an attractive prospect

Not to be deterred we decide to check out Bishop, about 50 miles south, for places to stay when we leave June Lake.  Never made it!  There were just too many side roads and black dotted tracks on our map that begged to be explored.  First was Convict Lake, just a 2 mile drive west of 395.  Very cold and windy day but the setting is breathtaking (literally).

At Convict Lake

Nice views along the way..

Continuing south, we notice Rock Creek road heading about 10 miles west into the mountains.  We set out to drive to the end of the road...it's what we call our "end of road" compulsion.  The drive started out on a narrow 2-track and soon deteriorated to one lane with pull-outs for on-coming traffic.  There were numerous campgrounds all along the fast running Rock Creek, hence the road's name.  We couldn't believe the number of cars and people at road's end, hiking the Mosquito Flat trail which starts at an altitude of 10,300'.

At Mosquito Flat trailhead, 10,300'

The end of Rock Creek Road

Rock Creek flowing fast

We can handle a day in the snow!

Rock Creek Lake & Lodge

By the time we back-tracked to 395 it was time to start our return toward June Lake and  home.  But then we decided to continue on to the South Tufa section of Mono Lake, another 20 miles each way, in order to get our bearings for an early morning return for good light and photos.


The WHOLE day comprised 8 hours, 175 miles, wonderful scenery, and a lot of photos!  And a lesson learned....Now hitting Publish!

Around June Lake

How is it possible that after 16 years of traveling the USA, Canada & Mexico, and living in California most of my life, I have never been to June Lake, or most of the places we have visited and intend to visit along Hwy 395.  More importantly, arriving at a destination such as this and still being completely overwhelmed by its beauty; it just never gets ho-hum!


Our home for a week, taking us through the Memorial Weekend until..whenever our mail arrives, is the Oh! Ridge Campground, located near the southern entrance of the scenic June Lake Loop, Hwy 158.  The Oh! refers to the spectacular views from our perch above this placid turquoise or emerald lake (depending on the angle of the sun),  framed by jagged granite peaks, and pine forested hillsides.  Our cost for the week is $83 with Golden Access Pass, no hookups but services available.  And once again, our drive from Bridgeport was 40 miles!  Rationing our use of diesel fuel is a good thing.

Oh Ridge campground above June Lake

This Deer Brush shrub is so fragrant with its tiny yellow flowers

From our base camp there is much to see and do:  Mono Lake, Lee Vining, Tioga Pass and the eastern entrance to Yosemite NP, Mammoth Lakes and Devil's Postpile, scenic backroads and hikes.  But for now we'll show you around the loop.

Driving thru town 

Cute and colorful

Next door to June Lake is Gull Lake 

You can't miss Horsetail Falls erupting down from Rush Creek at peak flow this time of year!

Spectacular Silver Lake..

With Grant Lake at the north end of the loop.  

All of these lakes provide excellent fishing, from what we've been told, and they all have Forest Service campgrounds.  There are several full service private RV parks as well.  The town of June Lake offers a variety of restaurants, a grocery store, and shops in a lovely alpine setting.  

We are situated at an altitude of 7700' which takes a bit of acclimating before attempting serious hikes.  Just walking down to the beach and back to our campsite has me out of breath!  The temps all week have been in the mid to high 70s...until today, and now it's snowing!

Glorious!

Front door shots...welcome!

Welcome to Bodie..A genuine gold mining ghost town!

This is Bodie, or rather the remains of Bodie.  Only about five percent of the buildings it contained during its 1880s heyday still remain.  Today, it stands just as time, fire and the elements have left it...a genuine California gold mining ghost town.  Designated a state historic park in 1962, it is now maintained in a state of "arrested decay".


Seven miles south of Bridgeport, the roads turns east for 13 miles, the last 3 of which are unpaved.  It is best to arrive early as days heat up, as do the crowds, but also for the best lighting.  The reflections, angles, and textures make for a photographer's dream.  The park opened at 9 am on our visit, but will possibly open earlier as summer approaches.


I look hundreds of photos but will post a few of my favorites, then link to the corresponding Picasa Web album for the full tour.  Bodie was on almost everyone's list who supplied us with sight-seeing places along Highway 395, and it is certainly well deserving of a Five Star  Rating!

Angles & textures

1927 Dodge Graham

Reflections thru old glass

Shell Gas station

Bodie overview

Nice picture frame

Reflecting

 Returning we decided to take an alternate route, somewhat out of our way, that went southwest to Mono Lake.  This was a 20 mile rutted dirt road all the way, but the views as you crest the hilltop were spectacular.  We need to get settled before the Memorial Weekend and have decided on the June Lake area.  We not only had a fantastic view along the June Lake loop but found our home for the next 7 days at the Oh Ridge Campground.  But this is another story...

Enjoy our tour of Bodie:

Bridgeport & Travertine Hot Springs

Short driving days are a good thing, especially with the price of fuel along this sparsely populated and traveled section of Hwy. 395 being over $5.00 per gallon.  From Coleville to our current location in Bridgeport was 46 miles.  We are staying at the Bridgeport Marina & RV Park in one of their dry camp sites, right on the lake with beautiful views, for $22 a night.  The Verizon service is weak but their wifi signal is fast.  When did it become mandatory to have internet at one's beck and call?  And deciding on where to stay based on said need...!  Shouldn't these be cause enough?

Bridgeport Lake with Eastern Sierras

Our site lakeside

 Storm clouds forming just after the eclipse (cloud covered)

Sunset

Bridgeport and the surrounding area offers endless recreational activities as the gateway to numerous high sierra canyons, peaks, lakes, streams, and hot springs.  Fishing seems to be a big draw to the area and several large trout have been pulled out of the lake here, and all along the Walker River.  There are not many folks out and about yet as the season doesn't officially open until Memorial Weekend, which is just the way we planned it, so our sight-seeing has been unencumbered by traffic both vehicular and pedestrian.


When this plan first started percolating and we sent out requests for places to see and things to do along Highway 395, our friend, photographer, and fellow blogger, Betty of Nomad's Notes, quickly responded with a long laundry list.  She has spent a lot of time in this area and  suggested some very special spots,  some not so well known, complete with directions.


Travertine Hot Springs, per Betty's email, was not to be missed.  We followed directions about a mile south of Bridgeport and turned left (east) on Jack Sawyer Rd.  Just past the county maintenance yard a rutted dirt road takes off and continues about a mile until a BLM sign announces your arrival.  We were immediately taken by the beauty of our surroundings.  The multicolored travertine formations, the perfect puffy clouds against a bright blue sky, with the Eastern Sierras framing the scene.  Walking around revealed several soaking tubs but one in particular was outstanding.  Of course, I had to test the waters and pronounced them to be perfect, around 105 degrees F.

This view was our first

But this was the perfect pool

Quality control was called in!

The town of Bridgeport is very small with limited services, though sufficient.  What it does offer is a lot of history, especially when gold was discovered in nearby Bodie around 1876.  Now Bodie really is the tourist attraction here but deserves a page of its on.  To be continued....

The old court house in the heart of Bridgeport, 1880

The only choice for groceries and expensive

Sadly the museum was closed...maybe opens Memorial Day

Sutter Creek to Coleville...

Interstate 80 over Donner Pass is the preferred crossing of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  Highway 88 or Carson Pass would be the likely second choice.  As it was closest to our departure point at Don and Joan's in Ione/Sutter Creek, and on a Thursday...probably not a heavy traffic day, that was our route of choice.  Two lanes with lots of pull-outs, no grade over 7%, and a summit elevation of 8,000+ feet, this very scenic route proved easy enough for us to negotiate in our motorhome towing the jeep Wrangler.


The heavy cloud cover precluded really good photos but we managed a few, especially near the summit at Caples Lake, and descending the eastern slopes.

Caples Lake near Carson Pass summit

And descending the eastern slopes

Clouds make for a nice effect thru bug-stained windows

On highway 395 heading south

We are staying at the Meadowcliff RV Park, one of our Passport America discount parks.  We paid $20 per night (2 nights) for full service, 50 amp hookups, fast wifi, and a beautiful setting.

The jeep is US!

Right outside our door looking west!

A nice walking trail

We spent most of today on a fast exploration of the Topaz Lake, Walker River, and Sonora Pass areas near our home base, stopping frequently to check out Forest Service campgrounds that would accommodate RVs.  Bootleg Campground is a short distance south of Walker on the west side of Highway 395, and suitable for larger rigs, though it doesn't have much ambiance.  Chris Flat Campground, a few miles further south, is beautiful, right on the Walker River with nice open camp sites, but also right on 395.  We did, however, find a perfect spot, at least for a night or two as we headed up Sonora Pass on Highway 108.  Sonora Bridge Campground is located just off Hwy. 108 on the edge of the Walker River Canyon.  There are a few large, open sites, even pull-thrus, with no hookups of course, for $6 per night with our Golden Age Pass.  


Back to today:  We continued up Sonora Pass, including a 25% grade, to the summit at about 9500'...no motorhomes or RVs please, pulling off frequently for photos.  Leavitt Falls was spectacular from its precarious viewpoint, as was the Walker River Valley.

Hanging on...

Many views of Walker River

 

Leavitt Falls

Walker River Canyon from above

Back on the highway, I suggested an alternate route home.  On our map Burcham Flat Road looked like a good alternative to 395.  It started off totally innocuous, flat with miles of sagebrush staging the snowy Sierras in the background.

But then the tempo changed as our dirt track narrowed and climbed to gain altitude with its neighboring peaks.  The road had deteriorated from recent snow, wind and rain, and we hugged the cliff...first up, then down.

Steep and narrow!

Then down...

If you look really close there is a tiny piece of Hwy. 395 down there....

As we approached Topaz Lake, we were rewarded with a field of wildflowers and beautiful lake views.

Enough excitement for one day!